Plug sockets are rarely the most exciting part of planning a new-build home, but their position can make an enormous difference to how comfortably each room works.
A poorly placed socket may be hidden behind a wardrobe, leave a bedside lamp without power or force you to trail an extension lead across the living room. Once the walls have been plastered and the rooms decorated, adding or moving sockets is likely to be more disruptive and expensive.
If your developer allows you to alter the electrical plan, it is worth looking beyond the basic number of sockets included. Think about furniture positions, everyday routines, appliances, charging and how your needs could change in the future.
Quick Answer: Where should plug sockets go in a new-build?
Plan Your Furniture Before Your Plug Sockets
One of the easiest mistakes is to look at an empty floor plan and distribute sockets evenly around the walls. That may produce a tidy electrical drawing, but it will not necessarily result in a practical home.
Start by marking the likely positions of:
- Beds and bedside tables
- Sofas and armchairs
- Televisions and media units
- Dining tables and sideboards
- Desks and office equipment
- Wardrobes and fitted storage
- Kitchen cabinets and appliances
- Console tables and floor lamps
Do not plan around only one possible furniture arrangement. A living room may work with the television on either of two walls, while a child’s bedroom will probably need to change as its occupant grows. A spare bedroom may eventually become a nursery or home office.
Try to give the main rooms at least a little flexibility. An extra double socket on an alternative wall could be much more useful than an elaborate charging point that only suits your current furniture.
Before approving anything, ask the developer for a clearly marked electrical plan. Check precisely what is included in the standard specification and request an itemised price for alterations or upgrades.
How Many Plug Sockets Does a New-Build Need?
There is no universal number that will suit every room or household. A small guest bedroom has different demands from a living room containing a television, games console, soundbar, lamps and charging equipment. Instead of aiming for a particular total, list what is likely to be plugged in permanently and what will only be used occasionally.
For example, a living-room TV area might need power for:
- The television
- A soundbar
- A streaming device
- A games console
- A satellite or television box
- A router or Wi-Fi device
- A table lamp
- Occasional charging
A single double socket is likely to quickly prove inadequate. In most locations, double sockets offer more flexibility than single ones. However, the overall electrical design, circuit capacity and suitability of each position need to be determined by the developer’s electrical contractor.
Domestic electrical installations must be designed to protect people from fire and injury. In England, electrical work in homes is covered by Part P of the Building Regulations, alongside the national wiring standard BS 7671. Building regulations vary across the UK, so the applicable requirements should always be confirmed for the property’s location. The IET explains the requirements of Part P and its relationship with other Building Regulations.
Where to Put Kitchen Plug Sockets
The kitchen generally needs more electrical planning than any other room. It contains fixed appliances, portable equipment and sometimes an island, breakfast bar or appliance cupboard. Socket positions should be considered as part of the wider process of planning a functional kitchen layout, rather than added after the cabinetry and appliances have been finalised.
Fixed kitchen appliances
Make a complete list of appliances before the kitchen design is finalised. Depending on the specification, this might include:
- Oven
- Hob
- Extractor hood
- Fridge
- Freezer
- Dishwasher
- Washing machine
- Tumble dryer
- Built-in microwave
- Wine cooler
- Boiling-water tap
- Waste disposal unit
Some appliances require dedicated connections or circuits rather than an ordinary socket. Their switches or isolation points must also be accessible. A switch hidden behind a heavy integrated appliance is of little use if the power needs to be turned off quickly.
Ask the kitchen designer and electrician to coordinate their plans. Cabinet widths, appliance specifications and electrical positions all need to agree before installation begins.
Kitchen worktop sockets
Think about how you will use each part of the worktop. A kettle and toaster may remain plugged in all the time, while a food processor, blender or hand mixer needs power close to a useful preparation area.
Distribute sockets across the kitchen rather than clustering them in one corner. A larger kitchen might need separate provision for:
- The kettle and toaster
- A coffee station
- A food-preparation area
- A microwave or air fryer
- Phone or tablet charging
- Occasional entertaining equipment
Avoid positioning sockets directly above sinks or hobs. Although there is not a single prescribed distance between a socket and a kitchen sink in every situation, Electrical Safety First advises allowing at least 30cm from sources of water or heat where possible. The final positions should be approved by the electrician. For more details, refer to Electrical Safety First’s guidance on sockets near water and heat.
Consider whether plugs will interfere with splashbacks, upstands or wall units. Socket positions look best when they are aligned consistently and coordinated with tile joints, but convenience and safety should take priority over visual symmetry.
Kitchen islands and peninsulas
If you want power at a kitchen island, request it early. Cabling may need to be routed through or beneath the floor before the final finishes are installed.
Island sockets are useful for small appliances, laptops and phone charging. Depending on the island design, they may be recessed into an end panel or fitted beneath the worktop overhang.
Avoid placing sockets where plugs and cables could be knocked by people sitting on stools. Pop-up sockets can provide a streamlined appearance, but they take up space inside the cabinet and may collect crumbs or spills. A discreet socket on the side of the island can be the simpler option.
Pantry and appliance cupboards
A socket inside a pantry or breakfast cupboard can keep a coffee machine, toaster or microwave out of sight. However, not every appliance is suitable for use in an enclosed cupboard.
The design needs to account for ventilation, heat, moisture, cable clearance and access to switches. Confirm the appliance manufacturer’s instructions and discuss the arrangement with the kitchen supplier and electrician.
Where to Put Utility Room Sockets
The utility room is often treated as an afterthought, yet it may contain several power-hungry appliances. Allow for the washing machine, tumble dryer and any additional fridge or freezer. If there is a worktop, include conveniently positioned sockets for an iron, steamer or other household equipment.
Other useful provisions include:
- A charging point for a cordless vacuum
- Power for a dehumidifier
- A socket for a heated clothes airer
- A convenient cleaning socket
- Power for a water softener, where planned
Keep electrical accessories appropriately separated from the sink, and make sure appliance isolation switches remain accessible after the cabinetry has been installed.
Where to Put Living Room Plug Sockets
The right living-room layout depends heavily on the position of the television and seating.
Around the television
First decide whether the television will stand on a media unit or be mounted on the wall. Count every item that may need power and allow a little spare capacity. If the television will be wall-mounted, ask for power and media connections at the correct height. This allows the screen to sit neatly against the wall without visible cables hanging down to a socket near the skirting board.
Do not simply bury an ordinary television power lead inside a wall. The electrician should provide a suitable permanent arrangement, along with any required data, aerial or satellite connections.
If there are two realistic locations for the television, consider whether both walls need some provision. This gives you the option to rearrange the room later.
Beside sofas and armchairs
Place sockets close to both ends of the principal sofa where possible. These can serve:
- Table or floor lamps
- Phone and tablet chargers
- Laptops
- Heated throws
- Powered recliners
- Adjustable chairs
- Medical or mobility equipment
Avoid placing every socket directly behind the centre of a large sofa. It may be difficult to reach, and the furniture can press against plugs and cables.
Floor sockets can work in a large, open-plan room where the seating sits away from the walls. However, they commit you to a particular furniture layout and can be visually intrusive when uncovered. Only choose them when the room arrangement is unlikely to change.
Remember occasional requirements too. A spare socket near a window or room corner may be useful for a Christmas tree, fan, air purifier or additional lamp.
Dining Room Plug Sockets
A sideboard or console table is a natural place for sockets. They can power a lamp, decorative lighting, a music speaker or seasonal decorations. If the dining table doubles as a workspace, make sure a laptop can be connected without running a cable across a walkway. A floor socket beneath the table is one option, but it should only be considered if you are confident the table will stay in roughly the same position.
Allow for any special additions, such as a wine cooler, drinks cabinet or warming equipment used when entertaining. Include at least one socket that remains easy to reach for vacuuming.
Where to Put Sockets in the Main Bedroom
The most important bedroom sockets are usually those beside the bed.
On both sides of the bed
Provide at least one double socket on each side of a double or king-size bed. These may be needed for lamps, phones, alarm clocks, electric blankets, sleep devices or medical equipment.
Use the actual dimensions of the bed and bedside tables to determine the positions. Simply spacing the sockets equally from the centre of the wall can result in them sitting awkwardly behind the headboard or beyond the bedside tables.
If you are not certain which wall the bed will occupy, adding sockets to an alternative wall may be worthwhile.
Dressing tables and wardrobes
Add a socket near the dressing table for a hairdryer, straighteners or other styling equipment. It should be positioned so hot appliances can be set down safely without stretching the cable.
Power inside fitted wardrobes may be useful for integrated lighting or charging, but it must be designed alongside the wardrobe system. Do not let a fitted wardrobe cover a socket that was intended to remain accessible.
You may also want a socket for a television, small desk or armchair lamp, plus a separate point that is easy to reach when vacuuming.
Children’s Bedrooms and Guest Rooms
Children’s rooms need to adapt over time. A nursery containing a cot, monitor and night light may later need a study desk, computer, television or games console.
Spread sockets across more than one wall so the room can accommodate different layouts. Avoid arrangements that encourage trailing cables beside a cot or across the floor, and talk to the electrician about appropriate safety accessories.
In a guest bedroom, sockets should be easy to find and use. Ideally, provide charging and lamp sockets on both sides of a double bed. Guests should not need to pull a bedside table away from the wall to charge a phone.
Home Office Plug Sockets
A home office can use far more sockets than expected. Count each item separately, including:
- Desktop computer or laptop charger
- One or more monitors
- Desk lamp
- Printer
- Speakers
- Phone charger
- Standing desk
- Router or network equipment
- Shredder
- Fan or heater
Position a bank of sockets close to the desk, but avoid putting all of them exactly where drawers, desk supports or cable-management trays will sit.
Where a reliable connection matters, ask for wired data cabling as well as power. It can be especially useful for video calls, large file transfers and rooms where Wi-Fi is weak.
Consider a second possible desk position. A future occupant may want to share the room, or the office could eventually become a bedroom.
Hallway, Landing and Staircase Sockets
Hallways and landings are among the most commonly overlooked areas. A well-positioned socket makes it easier to vacuum the stairs and adjoining rooms without stretching a cable dangerously across the house. A hallway console may also need power for a lamp, smart-home hub or seasonal decorations.
Possible uses include:
- Vacuuming
- A console lamp
- A cordless telephone
- A Wi-Fi mesh unit
- Security equipment
- A night light
- Christmas lights
Check that an open door will not cover the socket and that it will not end up trapped behind a fitted shoe cupboard. On a larger landing, an additional socket can be particularly helpful for cleaning or powering a night light.
Bathroom and En-Suite Electrical Planning
Bathrooms require much stricter electrical planning because the risk of electric shock is greater in wet conditions.
Ordinary socket outlets are not generally permitted close to a bath or shower. Current guidance states that a standard socket can only be installed where it is at least 2.5 metres horizontally from the edge of the bath or shower tray; suitably compliant shaver-supply units are treated differently. Bathroom circuits also require appropriate protection. Electrical Safety First provides a useful summary of bathroom electrical requirements.
Rather than trying to find space for an ordinary socket, consider whether the bathroom needs:
- A compliant shaver socket
- Electric-toothbrush charging
- An illuminated or heated mirror
- Power for a mirrored cabinet
- An extractor fan
- An electric towel rail
- Electric underfloor heating
Bathroom zones, equipment ratings and circuit requirements must be assessed by a qualified electrical professional. Never run an extension lead into the bathroom from another room.
Garage Plug Sockets
A single garage socket is unlikely to be enough if the space will be used for storage, DIY or household appliances. Position sockets along more than one wall and consider the likely location of a workbench.
For example, you may need power for:
- Tool chargers
- A drill or saw
- A pressure washer
- A lawnmower
- A fridge or freezer
- A tumble dryer
- A vacuum cleaner
- An electrically operated garage door
An electric garage door may require a suitably positioned supply at high level. If you may buy an electric vehicle, discuss future charger provision while the house is being built. An EV charger is not equivalent to using a normal three-pin socket. The electrical supply, cable route, charging equipment and protection must be designed for the purpose.
Even if you do not install the charger immediately, making provision for the route or electrical capacity could simplify future installation.
Loft and Storage-Space Sockets
An accessible, boarded loft may benefit from lighting and a carefully positioned socket for maintenance equipment or network hardware. However, power should not encourage regular use of a loft that is not designed for safe access.
If you expect to convert the loft in future, ask whether it is worthwhile planning cable routes or capacity now. This does not replace a future electrical design, but early preparation may reduce disruption.
Outdoor Plug Sockets
A weatherproof socket at the back of the house is useful for garden tools, lighting and outdoor entertaining. Depending on the size and layout of the plot, you might want power near the patio and closer to a shed or work area. A front outdoor socket can be helpful for vacuuming the car, using a pressure washer or installing seasonal lights.
Potential uses include:
- Lawn and hedge-care equipment
- Outdoor lighting
- A pressure washer
- A garden vacuum
- Electric cooking equipment
- A water feature
- Christmas decorations
- DIY tools
Outdoor electrical equipment should be appropriately protected, and Electrical Safety First recommends using RCD protection with all outdoor electrical equipment. Cables, connectors and extension leads used outside must also be suitable for outdoor conditions. Read its garden electrical-safety advice.
A hot tub, pond system or substantial garden building may require a dedicated electrical supply rather than a convenient outdoor socket.
Shed, Garden Room or Home Office
If a garden building is included with the new home—or likely to be added later—consider how it will be used. A basic shed might only need lighting and a socket for occasional tools. A garden office could require:
- Multiple desk sockets
- Heating or cooling
- Internal and external lighting
- Data cabling
- Wi-Fi equipment
- Kitchenette appliances
- Security equipment
The supply must be properly designed for its expected load and environment. A permanent cable to an outbuilding may require its own protective equipment or distribution arrangement, so it should be planned by a qualified electrician.
Running data cabling at the same time as the electrical supply can provide a more reliable internet connection than relying solely on Wi-Fi from the main house.
What Height Should Plug Sockets Be?
Developers will normally work to standard mounting heights and the requirements applying to the particular home. In England, Approved Document M provides accessibility guidance for switches, sockets and controls in new dwellings. Requirements may differ according to the dwelling category and the circumstances of the project. Approved Document M is available from GOV.UK.
If you have mobility difficulties—or want to make the home easier to use later in life—ask whether certain sockets can be positioned at a more accessible height. Bending to skirting-board level can be difficult, particularly behind furniture.
Socket heights should also be coordinated with:
- Kitchen worktops and splashbacks
- Bedside tables
- Desks
- Media units
- Fitted wardrobes
- Bathroom furniture
- Utility-room cabinetry
Where sockets will remain visible, consistent alignment creates a neater finish. However, it is better to place a socket where it is genuinely useful than to prioritise symmetry at the expense of access.
Are USB and USB-C Sockets Worth Having?
Integrated USB sockets can be convenient beside beds, desks and kitchen charging areas. Newer USB-C connections may support faster charging, depending on the output of the socket and the device.
However, charging technology changes more quickly than a home’s fixed wiring. An integrated port could become outdated long before the conventional socket beside it.
A balanced approach is to retain ordinary three-pin sockets throughout the house and add integrated charging in a few carefully selected places. Check the charging output rather than choosing a socket simply because it includes a USB port.
Built-in wireless charging pads can also be useful, but they should be treated as an optional convenience rather than your main charging provision.
Remember Smart-Home Power and Data
Smart-home equipment may be wireless, but many devices still require permanent power, batteries or a wired data connection.
Think about whether the home may include:
- A video doorbell
- External security cameras
- An alarm system
- Smart speakers or displays
- A smart thermostat
- Wi-Fi access points
- Motorised curtains or blinds
- Solar panels
- Battery storage
- Energy-monitoring equipment
Ask where the broadband connection will enter the house and where the router will sit. A router hidden in a metal cabinet or tucked into a distant corner may give poor coverage.
If you have firm plans for motorised blinds, cameras or ceiling-mounted access points, arranging the necessary wiring before plastering is much neater than adding visible cables afterwards.
Electrical Extras That May Be Worth Paying For
Developer upgrade prices can vary significantly, so it makes sense to prioritise features that would be difficult or disruptive to add after completion.
The most useful new build upgrades are often:
- Extra double sockets in bedrooms and living areas
- Additional kitchen worktop sockets
- Kitchen-island power
- Outdoor sockets
- More garage sockets
- A properly planned wall-mounted TV connection
- Wired data points for the office and television
- Future EV-charger provision
- Power to a garden room or substantial outbuilding
- Wiring for planned motorised blinds or security equipment
Other extras are more dependent on your lifestyle. Floor sockets, built-in wireless chargers, numerous USB outlets and television points in every bedroom may be worthwhile for some households but unnecessary for others.
Spend first on the infrastructure that is difficult to retrofit. Decorative socket finishes can often be changed more easily later, provided the underlying installation is suitable.
Common Plug-Socket Planning Mistakes
Watch out for these frequent problems:
- Approving the standard plan without checking it
- Planning sockets before deciding where furniture will go
- Positioning bedside sockets behind the headboard
- Hiding sockets behind wardrobes or fitted cabinets
- Providing too few sockets around the television
- Forgetting lamps beside sofas and armchairs
- Omitting sockets from the hallway and landing
- Forgetting power at the kitchen island
- Installing all charging points in one room
- Overcommitting to integrated USB technology
- Forgetting outdoor and garage power
- Failing to coordinate the electrical and kitchen plans
- Locating appliance switches where they cannot be reached
- Forgetting data connections
- Assuming every requested location will meet safety requirements
New-Build Plug Socket Checklist
Before signing off the electrical plan, check that:
- Furniture has been marked on the floor plan.
- Alternative room layouts have been considered.
- Both sides of each double bed have power.
- Sofa and armchair positions have been checked.
- The TV area has enough sockets and data connections.
- Every fixed appliance has the correct supply.
- Appliance isolation points will remain accessible.
- Kitchen sockets are distributed across useful work areas.
- Island or peninsula power has been confirmed.
- The home office has sufficient power and data provision.
- Hallways and landings include accessible cleaning sockets.
- Garage and outdoor requirements have been considered.
- Future EV charging has been discussed.
- Bathroom accessories have been specified by a professional.
- Socket heights work with the furniture and cabinetry.
- All upgrade prices have been confirmed in writing.
- The plans show the precise agreed locations.
If your developer permits it, photograph the wiring and cable routes before the walls are closed. These images could prove useful if you want to fit shelves, mount a television or carry out alterations later.
Frequently Asked Questions
How many sockets should a new build bedroom have?
There is no ideal number for every bedroom. As a starting point, provide power on both sides of a double bed, near a dressing table or desk and in an accessible location for cleaning. Include additional sockets if the room may contain a television or substantial computer equipment.
Are double sockets better than single sockets?
Double sockets usually provide greater flexibility and are sensible in most general-purpose locations. However, some fixed appliances require their own connection, circuit or isolation arrangement rather than an ordinary socket.
Can plug sockets be moved after the house is finished?
Yes, but the work may involve cutting into plasterboard, extending or altering cables, repairing the wall and redecorating. It is generally easier to agree important changes before the electrical installation and wall finishes are completed.
Should every socket include USB ports?
Probably not. USB and USB-C sockets are convenient in selected charging areas, but conventional three-pin sockets are more adaptable. A mixture provides a better balance between present-day convenience and long-term flexibility.
Can a plug socket go behind a wall-mounted television?
Power can be professionally installed at television height to create a tidy finish. The arrangement must be properly designed; an ordinary flexible TV lead should not simply be concealed inside the wall.
Do I really need a socket in the hallway?
A hallway socket is useful for vacuuming, a console lamp, Wi-Fi equipment and seasonal decorations. It is a small addition that can make everyday life considerably easier.
Can outdoor sockets be added later?
Yes, but installing them while the house is being built may make cable routing simpler and reduce disturbance to internal decoration and external landscaping.
Final Thoughts
The best socket plan is not necessarily the one with the greatest number of outlets; it is the one that reflects how you will actually live in the home.
Prioritise sockets beside beds and seating, adequate kitchen power, a properly equipped TV area, home-office connections and useful points in hallways, the garage and garden. Allow some flexibility for new furniture, changing technology and future occupants.
Most importantly, review the electrical plan before the developer’s first-fix deadline. Once you can see where the furniture, appliances and technology will sit, it becomes much easier to spot the socket that is missing—or the one about to disappear behind a wardrobe. All final electrical positions and specifications should be agreed with the developer and an appropriately qualified electrical professional.
0
Leave a Reply